Momentum V93 -

CheeseheadEarl said:

120A altermator? Is that really necessary, or do they not make em smaller than that now?

I remember many a 37A Delco on old GMs, two of my tractors still have em.

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Grumpy Cat said:

I thought that was high as well. I don't think my Mustang's alternator was that high. I think it was only 90A.

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I thought 120 amp alternator was way big too for this little machine.

My cars usually had 70 to 90 amp alternators.

Not sure why Elie has 120 amps.

Does the Elio have conventional heat or electrical heat?
(honest question, I can't remember)

wizard of ahs said:

I thought 120 amp alternator was way big too for this little machine.

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Same here. Its physical size would be important, too.
AC Delco "used to make" the CS 130, which was a conversion popular with the Suzuki Samurai crowd. Only 130mm dia. (tiny) and delivered high amperage below 2k rpm's....Hmmm, right about the RPM's that the Elio is supposed to be happy.

Engine is 181#, A little heavy in my opinion. My G1 engine weight is 125#, and NO alternator.

CrimsonEclipse said:

My cars usually had 70 to 90 amp alternators.

Not sure why Elie has 120 amps.

Does the Elio have conventional heat or electrical heat?
(honest question, I can't remember)

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I would assume Elio's will have conventional ICE heat. I think most manuals have 120A and automatics have 90A. ? No idea why.
I was pondering the "more expensive" steel exhaust manifold. Isn't steel used most often in turbocharged cars ?

https://www.bronsautomotive.com/alternator-battery-basics/

CheeseheadEarl said:

120A altermator? Is that really necessary, or do they not make em smaller than that now?

I remember many a 37A Delco on old GMs, two of my tractors still have em.

Click to expand...

I was thinking the same thing. 120 amperes is a crapload of charging capacity.

CrimsonEclipse said:

Does the Elio have conventional heat or electrical heat?
(honest question, I can't remember)

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That brings up an interesting question. I ass-umed they would use conventional heat and belt-driven AC. But I bet using electric for heat saves space by eliminating the heater core and electric AC means the compressor can be anywhere and are apparently more energy efficient. That would help explain the beefy alternator.

Having had heater cores leak, I welcome a less complex solution!

Could be a heat pump

Beefier starter + heavy duty alternator + decent battery + very light car = start/stop system and possibly even electric assist on throttle input. Hmm... using the starter to get the car moving saves having to use only gas to accelerate. Hmm... A 12 volts/100 amp starter = 1.6 horsepower unless I messed something up in the calculation. That would be about a 2.9% increase in power at take-off from a light... not insignificant. Forget about a start/stop system if that's too complicated. How about a simple little thing that says "Hey, when the car is at zero mph, and the throttle is pressed, engage the starter for 5 seconds" kind of thing. I wonder how hard it would be to put a simple "fake turbo" switch in the car that had a hot wire that goes to the starter solenoid to kick it on manually when you wanted. The starter in my '85 Mustang GT was strong enough to start AND pull the car to about 5 mph from a stop.

Electric heat and electric AC requires a lot of AMPS from the battery.
Using the starter for moving from a auto/stop also consumes a lot of AMPS.A bigger battery would be needed.More weight, more complicated, and cost.
KISS!