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Diy Hands On Projects

Ty

Ty

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There doesn't seem to be a lot of support between the rear and front. You don't want that to sag. When I cut the top off of a '74 Audi Fox, I ended up welding the doors shut so that there would be at least a little stiffness there.
 
Johnny Acree

Johnny Acree

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The newer Audi are a lot stiffer. I was watching the cut line as I cut across the roof to see if it opened , or closed up. I could not see any movement. Also, when jacking the car, I can place my floor jack at the right front jack point, and by the time I have the tire 2" - 3" off the floor, the left front and right rear tires are also off the floor! I can remove three tires by jacking one corner!
Then the kit uses 1/8" aluminum sheet metal, pop riveted and bonded to the Audi weld flanges. Oh! and an aluminum gusset at the B pillar. Should be OK, I hope.
 
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Coss

Coss

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Johnny Acree said:
The newer Audi are a lot stiffer. I was watching the cut line as I cut across the roof to see if it opened , or closed up. I could not see any movement. Also, when jacking the car, I can place my floor jack at the right front jack point, and by the time I have the tire 2" - 3" off the floor, the left front and right rear tires are also off the floor! I can remove three tires by jacking one corner!
Then the kit uses 1/8" aluminum sheet metal, pop riveted and bonded to the Audi weld flanges. Oh! and an aluminum gusset at the B pillar. Should be OK, I hope.
Click to expand...
Use steel rivets, and not aluminum, it will hold up a lot better.
I did T-Tops in cars a lot of years, and that's all I used, held up great.
 
Ty

Ty

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Johnny Acree said:
The newer Audi are a lot stiffer. I was watching the cut line as I cut across the roof to see if it opened , or closed up. I could not see any movement. Also, when jacking the car, I can place my floor jack at the right front jack point, and by the time I have the tire 2" - 3" off the floor, the left front and right rear tires are also off the floor! I can remove three tires by jacking one corner!
Then the kit uses 1/8" aluminum sheet metal, pop riveted and bonded to the Audi weld flanges. Oh! and an aluminum gusset at the B pillar. Should be OK, I hope.
Click to expand...
Sounds like it! I'd love to have the space to do work like that. I can't even do an engine swap at my current house. That'll change with the next house though!
 
NSTG8R

NSTG8R

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Coss said:
Use steel rivets, and not aluminum, it will hold up a lot better.
I did T-Tops in cars a lot of years, and that's all I used, held up great.
Click to expand...

Might I add dipping your steel pop rivets in primer or paint first, and installing them wet, to help slow down the inevitable dissimilar metal corrosion what WILL happen sooner or later. Stainless steel rivet would be even better for shear strength and corrosion resistance, also installed wet with primer/paint. Also use a structural adhesive between the steel and aluminum parts for the same reason. Aluminum and steal don't play well together.
 
Johnny Acree

Johnny Acree

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I've stalled out on the Audi UTE, but I still keep busy.
I have had this for a few years and I was getting tired of the looks.
r12rs1.jpg

So I found some used plastic and wheels,, and did this!
r12gs2.JPG

r12gs3.JPG

I LIKE IT!
 
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