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Engine Break-in

JCar

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Over the years I owned a few crotch rocket motorcycles and from the first mile after the engine warmed up I "rode it like I stole it". With my cars I took the approach of slow and easy the first 500 miles and made sure not to stay at the same engine rpm too long. With my F-250 diesel I followed the engine break-in detailed in the owners manual. There are several schools of thought on engine break-in and I look forward to what EM suggests when the time comes.

I'd treat it like I do any engine. Start it up, idle as little as possible, drive modestly until it's warm, then keep driving modestly to get good MPG. I don't BIRG over speed because I'm not doing the actual work, the engine is.

Engineers say one of the worst things you can do to any engine is excessive idling, especially when cold. The pistons aren't "locked into" the crankshaft and transmission. Also, when cold, the drivetrain doesn't warm up along with the engine if you just sit there, gaping at a phone, etc. Excessive warm-up means the engine may feel lively but the drivetrain wears faster when torque is applied too soon. The transmission has clearance specs that shrink as it warms, just not as much as the engine.

Millions of people are still stuck on the notion that idling is necessary beyond 10 seconds in warm weather and 30-60 seconds in all but the worst cold. I also hear people claim that "modern engines" don't need a serious break-in period. Many people sell their cars after 3 or 4 years and never learn what damage was done.
 

JCar

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To break in Modern engines you just drive them. It is no big deal.

It's not that simple. Clearances are tighter but metal is still imperfect and piston rings need to seat. This quote from Popular Mechanics is interesting, but drag racing is not wise during break-in.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/saturday-mechanic-blog/how-to-break-in-a-new-car

"Piston rings don’t rely on their spring tension to seal against the cylinder bores. Instead, combustion gases work their way between the rings and the piston and force the rings outward. During the first few minutes of engine operation, it’s important that the throttle be opened pretty far at lower rpms to provide this high pressure. Otherwise, the rings won’t burnish the cylinder walls properly, and the engine will have high volumes of blow-by—which means excessive oil consumption and shortened engine life...."
 

JEBar

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my hunch is info from IAV on whatever the break-in process will be included with each Elio .... more than likely, very few will have rolled off of the assembly line before the info is posted on this forum .... whatever they recommend is exactly what I plan to do
 

RUCRAYZE

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Read the mechanic's explanation for the first 2k- by keeping the rpm's low the engine wouldn't heat up?
doesn't the thermostat control engine temperature? I would think (which usually gets me in deep dodo), that the temp basically stays within a few degrees?
thanks
 

pistonboy

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I would like to hear what engineers from IAV say about breaking in engines (in general, not any specific). Dealers may tell you whatever sounds good regardless if it is true or not. They are interested in the sale, not your engine life.
 

pistonboy

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I heard the Elio oil change interval is suppose to be 3,000 miles. What do most car dealers specify? From where did this number come. From IAV people? Is the filter change 6,000 miles?
 

electroken

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doesn't the thermostat control engine temperature? I would think (which usually gets me in deep dodo), that the temp basically stays within a few degrees?
thanks

The coolant circulating past the thermostat does stabilize to a fairly narrow range of temperatures. The oil will usually run hotter. Other things, like the underside of the piston crown and the exhaust valve faces run MUCH hotter. Those temperatures are load dependent.
 
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