Odbii 2005 Nissan Sentra

[Jambe]

My daughter called me this evening to report that her car died on the (urban) freeway. Just as if she had turned the key off. Starter would turn it over but it wouldn't start. After being moved to an off ramp she tried again and it started but then died. It is now at the Nissan dealership.

My questions are: Does a dealership's reading of the OBDII codes pinpoint the problem more than that which you can get from O'Reilly or Autozone? Is it possible that a code would show the trouble to be a clogged fuel filter or a failed fuel pump?

Any guesses as to what the problem will be found to be?

 

[Norahsbed]

My daughter called me this evening to report that her car died on the (urban) freeway. Just as if she had turned the key off. Starter would turn it over but it wouldn't start. After being moved to an off ramp she tried again and it started but then died. It is now at the Nissan dealership.

My questions are: Does a dealership's reading of the OBDII codes pinpoint the problem more than that which you can get from O'Reilly or Autozone? Is it possible that a code would show the trouble to be a clogged fuel filter or a failed fuel pump?

Any guesses as to what the problem will be found to be?

Don't know much about cars but we had a Chevy luv truck that did that all the time when the outside temp was above 80. It was vapor lock. We had to keep the gas tank full when the temp was above 80 or we would sit on the side of the road until it cooled off. Anyone can correct me if I'm wrong, like I said don't know much about cars.

 

[W. WIllie]

Yes the CEL readings will be really close or exact. Need more info on the vehicle, year, make, engine size. Also some vehicles will not read the fuel system.

HTH
Willie

 

[Injunjoe]

Sounds like what my 1999 Nissan Quest did when the teeth sheared off the timing belt. My manual says to change the belt every 100,000 miles. Luckily my engine was non-interference or I would have had to have a valve job too. If that is the problem, hope your Sentra is non-interference too.

 

[champsman]

I had a similar problem with my 97 Suzuki, it was the computor (ECM) over heating and a failing diode inside it. Was able to get it repaired for half the cost of a new one

 

[Indiana Dave]

The question is did it show a code? Did the check engine light come on or was it on for awhile.. If no check engine light it could be a fuel problem or timing belt issue or other problems.. Like injunjoe if it is a timing belt hopefully it is a non interference engine. Your can check online with the specs about the car and egine size.

Been there done that experience.

 

[Ty]

My daughter called me this evening to report that her car died on the (urban) freeway. Just as if she had turned the key off. Starter would turn it over but it wouldn't start. After being moved to an off ramp she tried again and it started but then died. It is now at the Nissan dealership.

My questions are: Does a dealership's reading of the OBDII codes pinpoint the problem more than that which you can get from O'Reilly or Autozone? Is it possible that a code would show the trouble to be a clogged fuel filter or a failed fuel pump?

Any guesses as to what the problem will be found to be?

I use a $12 obdii reader connected to my phone via Bluetooth to an app called "Torque". I can get very detailed error codes that can tell me where the error is and is usually correct to the exact sensor. Now, the dealership has more in-depth code reading ability than even I can get. Most likely, the dealership will identify the problem and offer to fix it. Of course, there labor rates will be much higher than your own personal sweat and tears. The dealer has access to their own software to a better degree than those part stores and other reader manufacturers would have. Don't worry about it maybe being a timing belt. You said it started for a bit and then died which indicates that everything CAN work right but it just isn't. This is typical of a failed sensor. The way you described it, I would bet she has either a cam sensor or a crank sensor out. Without being able to sense the engine turning, the ECM will turn off fuel delivery and Spark.

 

[Jambe]

Just got the report--code says crankshaft sensor--about $350. He suggested that the camshaft should also be replaced--about $550 for both. Is it a case of better to do both while they have it apart?

 

[Indiana Dave]

Just got the report--code says crankshaft sensor--about $350. He suggested that the camshaft should also be replaced--about $550 for both. Is it a case of better to do both while they have it apart?

Check you tube for a tutorial. That's seems expensive for probably $25.00 part at autozone. The cam shaft sensor should be easy to change. I wouldn't change it till it errors or codes out

Funny story (now at least). Daughter driving home from college called and said car was making a roaring noise but running fine. Told her to pull off interstate and stop then call me back..she called back later and said the noise stopped when she pulled off the interstate but now upon getting back on it was noisy again.. I asked about water temp, oil light ect. and she mentions the "rpm thingy", that it's on 4 or 45..I said is the transmission in DRIVE! Then I hear the roaring stop as she shifts from 2nd to drive.. Oh well.........

 

[Ty]

Just got the report--code says crankshaft sensor--about $350. He suggested that the camshaft should also be replaced--about $550 for both. Is it a case of better to do both while they have it apart?

No. They don't normally go out. They don't "wear out" together either. Check how hard the one will be to replace. I've seen some that were literally a single bolt and connection and took me 5 minutes to replace. Other times involved removing a component or two. Dad's jeep required removing the starter, I believe.